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Hope this makes sense so here goes. I got a new chain as it was falling apart. That was the only problem but now i have more odd things going on. I was told my middle gear ( crank one, sorry dont know what you call it lol) was slightly wonky. I cant see anything at all. Also now i slip when in top gear back and crank so have to drop down. The guy told me that the rear gears were only slightly worn and the chain may bed in after a while, is that true?. To be honest i cant afford to change anything as im jobless mates. Is it just the me chain or could ties be more to it? Can i change the gears on the wheel or the middle crank one and if so is it easy? What advice if any can you give please. I have i claud butler cape wrath. Think its 2008. Sorry to waffle on mates.e chain or could ties be more to it? Can i change the gears on the wheel or the middle crank one and if so is it easy? What advice if any can you give please. I have i claud butler cape wrath. Think its 2008. Sorry to waffle on mates.

Hello mate... its one of those things that its going to be really difficult to help without seeing it and turning the cranks

What i would suggest is reviewing a video like this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zt0ZZm3jTlM

understanding what all the adjustments do on your bike and set it up as best you can yourself... if issues still remain then it may be due to wear of the components. Also just check for alignment stuff by looking yourself. from behind and above. Stuff should line up and be strait. If it isnt then its come loose and needs tightening, hasn't been put on strait, or is bent.

There is lots of stuff online. If you work out what everythign does then its easier to debug issues

http://bicycletutor.com/

My fatherin law did these and thought they were good.. they are free after all

http://www.evanscycles.com/servicing/fr ... ce-classes

Btw- chains don't bed in.

As said above- spend half a day/ a day learning about your gears etc and go play with it yourself.

When you have a grasp of this skill you'll be able to keep your bike tuned up every ride.

To find out if your chain rings at the front are bent all you need to do is remove them and lay them on a flat surface. A couple of mm out can really foul things up. It's not a hard job to do but does require common sense and use good tools.

See if your library has the Haynes guide to bicycle maintenance. Somehow the missis got this at a course and it's been really useful.

Thanks guys. Some good info there. Thing is i have fumbled my way round things and been ok. Never been a mechanic but i have sussed out what i need to know about things. Being a classic car owner and racer for years i needed to think on my feet lol so apply that to the bike. I didnt have any worries till the chain let go lol. Its only the bike shop guy in sorbo that put the idea of chain wearing in into my head. I did think it a bit odd that it would have any play. I will take the gears off and see if there flat. If not can i buy then individually but they look like there one unit. How much do they cost? Also is it easy to take the gear set off a wheel? I have a spare wheel that i could swap gears over with. Thanks for the help mates.

Front "gears" aka chain rings- easy to take off, relatively cheap.

Back "gears" aka cassette- specialist tool to take off, costs what you want them to.

I now strongly suggest getting that book. All the answers you seek are there.

Ok understood dan. I may use the gears from a spare wheel i have. Its a ritchey ocr comp wheel. Its got nine gears and looks ok. I dont know but sure its just the chain rings that are the cause. I will get that book.

I cant get a truvativ isoflow middle chain ring but can get a middleburn one instead. Will that fit into my chain set ok if the pcd and teeth count are the same? Or is it a daft idea to mix them? I would not think about changing anything till my chain let go so lost really.

You can use any combination of chain rings.

I ran some cheapo unknown 42, FSA 38 and shimano 32 before with no issues.

Whatever you choose, remember steel wears harder.

Make sure you don't get a BMX chain ring and you get a 5 bolt fitting, or whatever your bike is.

I found chain reaction cycles was way cheapest too for some good kit.

If you're worried about chain jump maybe you should get a chain device? Have you setup your deraullier right yet?- this helps maintain good tension as well.

I found very little difference between the very expensive chain rings and low to mid price.

The derailier works fine, it was only cos the middle gear was bent that the chain got stuck. God knows how i did that. I cant remember getting anything caught in it. I will get my own tools to do it next time lol. Thanks for the info. Yet another noob question answered lol. How did you know im getting it from chainreaction dan? Do you work in the bike shop mate?

Make sure you get the right size for the crank spider arm length they are mostly standard but often the bargain bits on Chain Reaction are the odd sizes.

The best practice is to change the whole drive chain at once as it does all wear and so 'fits' together as it wears. To make do when funds are low and although not ideal, as the chain is softest and probably in the worst condition (and luckily the cheapest bit) you can fit a new chain f the cassette / chain rings aren't worn very much. It might just slip a little bit, or not at all if you’re lucky and then settle down as it wears/stretches and fits better. I’ve done this for my commuter – one cassette lasts for two chains and the chain rings last even longer, the bigger the ring the longer it lasts as each tooth it get less use each turn. This is what I’ve found anyway and I’m often bodging stuff to make it work so a proper bike mechanic might say it’s all rubbish.

Im changing the cassette as well. Its only when i compared it to a new one i realised how worn it was. Got a new chain already and new chain ring on the way. Sure it will be good after that.