Forum

http://www.oneupcomponents.com/
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/news/artic ... ook-39168/
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Oneup-Comp ... -2014.html
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Hope-New-R ... -2014.html

I thought I would do a quick review as a few people were interested to see how I got on. I'm running 1x10 on a 29er, 32T front ring and 11-36 sram X7 cassette. Since installing I have ridden Epping, Bredgbury, Tunnel Hill, Thorndon urban route and Danbury urban route with Matt HVAC who has a simular 29er set up with 1x10 non 42T for conmarrison.

Main reason for me buying it was because I felt with old set up I would struggled on the long steep mud climbs to keep momentum going, in these sort of situations I would of dropped the to the granny ring on a 2X10 set up to keep riding rather than walk up. Anyone that has ridden with me before will know I've got a fair amount of fitness and normal attack the hills rather than just try to get up them (hell I rode up Snowdonia before )

First impressions when it turned up were good, you can easily see why it costs what it cost with a lot of machining done to keep the weight down but strength up. Installation was a piece of cake, I had left enough links in my chain for the new ring when I had converted the bike to 1x10 so no need to plan around there. Quick play be the b tension screw and it was running smooth straight away.

The two aspects of the conversions that worth talking about is how the 42T ring and the 17T missing ring affects riding. Yes the bigger ring is less smooth in the changing gear (both selecting and disengaging) compared to the rest of the cassette but one you plan the gear changing a little it before you need to its fine (think off it the same way you select the right height on a dropper post before the obstacle). I only tended to use it as a bail out gear than as the main port of call on all climbs, it just allows you to keep renching the bike up the climb rather than get off and walk. Because it is not use all that often I can see myself transferring it over when the rest of the cassette has worn out so it should last for years.

The missing 17T ring is an interesting one, on a normal trail ride I found I never really got down as far as the 15T ring so was unaware of the gap in the cassette. On the urban rides, it was more noticeable as I would spin along on 19T and 15T on the flat (11T on anything with a slight gradient going downhill and eventually running out of gears). The gear changing between the 15T and 19T was still smooth other than the jump in the gears. I can't see why you would not be able to make your own custom cassette up to lessen the jump in gears (e.g. put a 16T instead of 15T) or remove the 15T instead of 17T.

If I had the money would I go for a 1x11 set up? Yes, the 42T-10Twould works for most people's riding and be a better system that is smotherer and more professional but the cost is far too high at the moment for most riders budgets. Would I recommend one up 42T ring (or hope's new 42T ring), yes. It's cheaper by a long way, works just as well if you are willing to live with the lag in time for changing gears and the jump in teeth size. I will update if I have any problems or exseive wear.

Agreed, after riding matt's bike a few times. If you want a simple 10 speed bike, for what ever reason (I can think of quite a few). this is a really life saver on the climbs. depending on you fitness and your front ring size, this is not the answer to some of the steep hill climbs in wales, but will get you up most hills.

Would I have it?
On my 1x10 hard tail 29er? No, not until cost drops closer to £50 as it is just a "cheap winter bike" .
On my 150mm travel AM 26" bike ? again no, I am running 2x10 (22/36f - 11/36r) so these isn't any point, but is I find my self not using the granny ring very much this year when I replace the drive train I will consider in depth a 1x10 (32f-11/42).

I see that Hope are making one of these, not sure when it's being released.

Yes they are. It is ever so slightly lighter than the oneup. We can all assume it will be more money as well lol

Good review matt
my one up in green is on its way
i plan to use it on my fat bike, only for when its desperate though, mind you that is most of the time

http://www.oneupcomponents.com/

Some pretty cool changes from one up, first off, they are now making 40T rings designed to be able to work with short length derailleur. Secondary and move importanty, they are now making and selling 16T rings to make the gap from taking out the 17T less knoticeable and its free! well sort of. All new orders will include one for free (so it will cost still $100 for 42T and $90 for 40T) and exsisting buyer can e-mail then and get on sent to the them.

A few other companies are making big rings now include hope, absolute black, and wolf tooth. Think ther is one or two others that i have missed.

http://www.hopetech.com/product/40t-rex/
http://www.absoluteblack.cc/cassette-cog.html
http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/product ... g-for-sram

I fitted mine on my bike and it worked perfectly, i didnt have to adjust anything, really pleased, as those who know me know that i NEED this 42Tring

I've fitted a 40t hope and changed front ring back to 32 from a 30 which still gives a lower gear than the 30-11/36.. Also fits within the limits of the zee mech.. Can't comment on durability yet..

kind of in this boat now... not really using the full range of my 22/36 - 11/36 when in the granny on the toughest hills locally i still have at least 3 shifts left till i'm in 1st gear

according to Sheldon Brown that equates to 1.5 gear ration, the options are

1x10 with a 30t lowest ratio is 1.6
1x10 with a 32 lowest ratio is 1.7
1x10 with a 32 + 40 in the rear the lowest ratio is back to 1.5

but one thing bugs me about the 16t replacement, you remove the 17t on a 11-36 to make room for the 40t then what do you remove to add the 16t ? 15, 19 ? surely you'll have the same ratio change issue but just in a different place or am i missing something ?

I have ordered a 30t SRAM direct mount with the intention of running it on a 11-36 cassette. I'll keep you posted, but i am worried it may fall short in Wales.

Top write up boys!

UPDATE

Right I've had a little bit of a play around, I’ve fitted a 16T ring to lessen the gap between the gear changes and I have also fitted a 34T front ring (was running 32T).

I removed the 15T and changed it for the 16T. The 16T ring does seem to smoothen out the gear changes a lot, beforehand it always felt like you had missed a gear (which you had as the 17T was never there lol). It makes the gear change from 19T to now 16T (or other way round) a lot smoother in the gearing ratio, but the actual gear change still is done as smoothly as before.

Changing up to a 34T on the front is again a bit of an odd ball. For me with my fitness levels, a lightish hardtail and the dry conditions at the moment, it works brilliantly. I find I do use the larger ring a lot more on the climbs (was only used as a bail out gear) but the important part is on the flatter sections. Before I always found my legs were always spin more than other people (on the flat or climbing) but speeds were similar. By spinning more i always found i was more tired and got worn out a lot quicker. Going for the 34T has made the riding more efficient (I’m less tired on the flat and climbing as my legs are spinning less) and speeds increase when pedaling. There are down sides, on climbs you have to be a more powerful rider to keep retching the bike up the hill (but that will get you fitter). When boggy or muddy you end up struggling a little bit more to keep speed up.

What i might do in the end is run 34T for summer months and £2T for winter months. Some people might see this as a load of agg but the way i look at it is it not much more agg than changing tires over when the mud comes

Ive gone 1 x 10 with 32T narrow wide at the front and 42T at the front, everything seems to shift smoothly and has saved me a whole half a pound. i dont think i will miss the bigger gear at the front and i think the 42T will help when needed the most. i think someone overweight like me it gives you the chance to carry on, albeit slowly, and eventually get fitter.
a good by product of not having the front deraiileur and shifter, means i can now run my dropper cable through the frame where the front derailleur cable used to be.
like Matt i dont use the granny much on the am bike, but im staying 2 x 10

Ill add Ive just fitted a 40T OneUp, I run a single 32T upfront.

I removed the 8th gear from the cassette, (13T ?), and its all running fine.

I have a Zee (Short Cage) derailuer at the back, OneUp did previoulsy say that this couldnt be used (due to it being Short cage) but now they say you can use a 40T but you need to check the rear BB to Wheel wheelbase on none and full rear shock compression, this is becuase depending on the linkage, this distance will grow, Ive got a Commencal v3 FR and apparently this has quite a bit of chain growth and more than OneUp recommend, but havnt noticed any issues yet, maybe becuase when in First gear (i.e on the OneUp ring) Im not likely to be doing huge drops and thus bottoming out my rear shock.