Forum

Hi,
After racing last weekend using the big ring only I've decided to leave just one ring.
Currently I have 36/22 front and 11/36 rear on a 29" ht.

I'm thinking of getting the rotor ovalized q ring, the one for single speed.
I have no much experience on this matter. Read that chain may drop, then I need to get the chainline perfect, spacers, compatibility, etc...

Is it too complicated? Any advice?
Thanks
http://www.rotorbike.com/products/mtb/single-speed_49

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=475

And one of these?

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=336

Or go the whole hog and get one these?

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=363

I've just done the same conversion on my winter hack, have yet to ride it but I am running:

X7 type 2 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram ... prod108852
Raceface wide/narrow chain ring 32 T http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/race ... prod109723

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/categ ... -13-47573/ review

mrp guard http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mrp- ... -prod61123 but at the moment I have removed the bottom roller. Main reason for the guide was for the skid plate as I like riding over logs...a lot. kept the upper guide to be on the safe side

wanted to make the whole drive system as simple and light as possible

Is it possible without a chain guide?
Just the ovalized 34 teeth chain ring, 10 speed chain and cassette and x9 rear derailleur.
Then I'd remove the front shifter and mech.
Already got a chain guide

Ok, a type II rear derailleur is an option then.

Supposedly ..running a narrow/wide chainring and clutch deraliuer (Saint/Zee) means you don't need a chain guide but this clearly would depend on the terrain you ride and how much jumping around the chain does.

I've tried a few chain guides (including the Superstar ones) and some can be rather noisy and difficult to set up to run quiet, you often need various spacers to get it just right, ended up with an MRP which is great but a little pricey.

I have 32 front and 36/10 which is pretty good, its always going to be a compromise, it prob could with a better higher gear for hill climbing (although this mostly could be solved by me getting fitter), I have however run out of gears on very fast DH runs.

Im using a bash ring and this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope ... tAod_RYAnA

works perfectly, wouldnt of paid that price for it though, picked mine up almost new for a tenner on ebay.

My dirt biks e have single gear at the front and chain guides are noise though.
No good for racing seat to low.
Bob

A type ll / clutch rear mech add tension which is what the tensioner yuo have a photo of above does. you could run one or the other.

the narrow/wide ring secures the chain at the front. this is where the chain guid would be needed if you werent running a narrow/wide ring. you could go for a guide such as the superstar one which acts like a static front derailleur or you could go for a bash ring and a guide like the hope one.

if you are not running a narrow/wide ring it is still worth while running a single ring specific chainring as they have no ramps and are much less prone to wear comapared to a dual/triple ring

Right, had its first test ride last night of Danbury xc, good news is had no dropping chain or chain slap/noise problem with the current set up (but then again i was not expecting to with the up guide fitted). Just out of interest i my try running it without but i'm not too worried. Side idea though - i found the chain rubbed a bit on the lower part of the guide (where the lower roller wheel would have been) when in lowest gear so i may modify the guide and remove that part of the plate.

As for gearing, think 32 up front worked perfectly (was able to climb everything other than when it got too boggy and slippy (blame tyres)) but would be interested in a 34 later on as i found i had to pedal faster to go the same speed as my mate running a 36 on the flat. Riding a 29er is defiantly an interesting experience, for winter hack use - spot on, for trail use no so sure. 27.5" would be the one to go for i think for a one bike person.

Que the argument to begin

When I was running 1x9 I used a 32t up front and 12-36 @ the rear, like matt says ok for the majority but you do spin out of gears. 34 didn't give me enough on the climbs through the winter /slower stuff.
As for 29er on the trails its just a matter of getting used to the different caricaturistics. Last week in Surrey hills on a 160mm 29er was awesome.

I'm same as VW and Surfbum, 32 does seem right for climbing (although nothing too mental) but you can run out, I don't notice this on short rough DH runs but on long downhill roads etc. I guess there are companies that make a 33 tooth ?

33 would not work for a wide/narrow format, only evans in this formate DOH

Ha......I hadn't thought of that !

Interesting feature here > http://www.vitalmtb.com/product/feature ... tlights%29

Its about adding a new 42 tooth ring (and lossing the seperate 17 tooth one), seems cool but bit of a rip off $100 for one ring !,