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I installed a new cassette SRAM XG1080, a new rear derailleur SRAM X0 and new shifter SRAM X0.

I also got my replacement IR Command Post from Specs in Chelmsford, so I put that on as well today. A massive thanks to Spesh for sorting this out and helping me route the cable internally, I swore at my bike for about an hour, gave up, took it to Spesh, James did it in about 10 minutes !!! Got it home and then did the rest of the IR install myself. It looks very clean with no cables showing and the post works a treat.

But anyway, on to my upgrades.
when I put the Cassette on (and I'm used to Shimano stuff), when tightening the lock ring, it didn't really click like the Shimano ones do, it just got tighter with no noise, so I gave it some good amount of torque. Do SRAM cassettes normally click loudly or is it different for each cassette? I'm pretty sure it's on there correctly, there is zero wiggle.

The rear derailleur went on OK. I didn't use a torque wrench, just greased the thread and got it on there good and tight, making sure the derailleur 'hook' on the mounting bolt was firmly butted up to the frame hanger. Do you torque yours?

The shifter went on fine, but do you start with the tension screw fully in (loose) or half way out?

I did the cable up hand tight, but buggered about with it too much and the strands have un-twirled, so I need another. Is hand tight correct to start with? It did index in ok, but not perfectly, it needed wore tweeking, but I'll do that tomorrow when I put a new cable on.

There is probably a load of different vids and opinions on setting rear mechs out there, but the way i do it is......

Align the jockey wheels perfectly with the smallest cog on the cassette (hi/low screws half way out) easier to judge without the chain on as well i find. Put your chain back on and spin up the cranks/back wheel while cycling up through the gears. If you get the chatter of the chain catching higher or lower cogs on the cassette it was slightly off when you set it to the small cog. Go back down to that cog and adjust it with the tensioner on the mech or on the shifter (only use 1 and not the hi/low screws) Do this until it shifts through all gears with a sweat confident change. Job done.

If you haven't bought pre stretched cables then you will need to stretch them. You have internally routed so you need to go up and down through the gears. I do this 20 times, that's 20 up and 20 down. You may have to fine tune again after doing this. If you don't you may get some stretch while riding one day. Don't worry just remember to sort it out when you get home after that ride.

Apologies for the long post, but hope it helps.

Don't forget to set the low limit screw as well or you risk throwing the chain off the top of the cassette.

I've set the limit screw without any issues, it very easy to do with the chain off the bike. The B screw needed to come almost all the way out.

It's more that starting point with the shifter tensioner, do I start with it. Maple telly loose, or out a few turns? I guess out a few turns to give me some adjustment either way.

I think youre talking about the barrel adjuster on the shifters? I usually start it about halfway so i can add or reduce tension if needed.