Forum

Use this video as a guide, some of the videos I have seen on other youtube links (or even bike raider) are very worrying Its all about taking your time.

It's dead easy with that Shimano bleed tool. Only costs a few quid and hasn't failed me on a few sets I've done. Can't comment on the other methods as I've never used them.

That's exactly how I did it.

If you note, when he pulls the lever with the block in, they hardly move, when he puts the wheel back on, he gets much more movement on the lever.

That's exactly like mine. But mine don't work very well at all?

Try bleeding with pads and wheel in. Not the correct way, but should give you a closer finish. If your disc are true and you do it carefully it should be ok.

Sand down the Bleed block.


Epic bleed solutions do a kit to make your own.

Or it may be a sign you need a new rotor or pads?

Sanding the bleed block was a thought I also had. It seems stupid that the block literally fills the entire gap between the internal faces of the caliper. You are bound to get some unwanted play as you pump the brakes the first time you apply them after installing the pads.

(my pads and rotors are very new)

Anyways, its a mute point now. My bike is going into Spesh for its first free service tomorrow and I have asked them to bleed and setup the brakes.

Latest update on this for those interested. I wound out the reach adjust to its maximum, the brakes became rock solid and very effective.
I must have been bleeding them with the reach adjust wound in a fair bit. I think this must affect the bleed process?

It does, its usually the first thing they say to do?